Special Ops Paintball: The end-all of Trilogy recouces - Special Ops Paintball

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The end-all of Trilogy recouces Accurate info on the Trilogies Rate Topic: ***** 1 Votes

#31 User is offline   Daddy Orca 

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Posted 31 March 2007 - 06:13 AM

Dude, thanks for the info!

It's good to see someone giving us a resources for the trilogy.

The pics of your markers are tight.
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#32 User is offline   Renquist 

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Posted 20 July 2007 - 06:54 PM

Great post. Does anyone know with any certainty whether an SF can run on co2? I've seen it done but who's to say.....
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#33 User is offline   BlueDragonX 

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Posted 20 July 2007 - 07:33 PM

For those of you wondering about the Trilogy pump kit from PMP Industries (the only one), here's some pics:
Posted Image
Posted Image

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#34 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 10:20 AM

Warlord - I'm adding 2 pdf's for the trilogy and SF settings. Paste them on your list if you want.

Attached File(s)


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#35 User is offline   Renquist 

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 05:00 PM

Ahah - per the link provided for the trilogy sf manual:

"Q) Does WGP recomend C02 or compressed air on my marker?
A) WGP recommends compressed air, but the markers will also work on CO2. If you are using
a C02 tank, you may experience the marker getting cold, this is normal for C02. C02 consists
of frozen liquid and when this liquid enters the the marker it will cause the marker to get cold.
To remedy this problem, let your marker warm up to room temperature in a safe, secure place."

A SF can apparently run on co2.
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#36 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 08:10 PM

View PostRenquist, on Jul 24 2007, 08:00 PM, said:

Ahah - per the link provided for the trilogy sf manual:

"Q) Does WGP recomend C02 or compressed air on my marker?
A) WGP recommends compressed air, but the markers will also work on CO2. If you are using
a C02 tank, you may experience the marker getting cold, this is normal for C02. C02 consists
of frozen liquid and when this liquid enters the the marker it will cause the marker to get cold.
To remedy this problem, let your marker warm up to room temperature in a safe, secure place."

A SF can apparently run on co2.


yes REN - these pdf's are not on WGP's site - but they are direct downloads from their master tech.


.
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#37 User is offline   Renquist 

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 06:27 PM

View Postslinkyaroo, on Jul 24 2007, 08:10 PM, said:

View PostRenquist, on Jul 24 2007, 08:00 PM, said:

Ahah - per the link provided for the trilogy sf manual:

"Q) Does WGP recomend C02 or compressed air on my marker?
A) WGP recommends compressed air, but the markers will also work on CO2. If you are using
a C02 tank, you may experience the marker getting cold, this is normal for C02. C02 consists
of frozen liquid and when this liquid enters the the marker it will cause the marker to get cold.
To remedy this problem, let your marker warm up to room temperature in a safe, secure place."

A SF can apparently run on co2.


yes REN - these pdf's are not on WGP's site - but they are direct downloads from their master tech.


.


Much thanks for the info then :dodgy:
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#38 User is offline   Kheph 

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Posted 26 August 2007 - 06:26 PM

Looking for a price for the palmer stabilizer for this Trilogy http://www.xtremez.com/paintball/product_i...p;cmpid=SPC-pbr
can someone tell me where the best place to get one is?

Thanks

BTW...anyone order from this site before???? ARE They Reputable????

This post has been edited by Kheph: 26 August 2007 - 06:28 PM

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#39 User is offline   dunno 

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Posted 29 October 2007 - 10:06 PM

does any1 know if a Dark Horizon Titanium hammer for the autococker will fit a trilogy?
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#40 User is offline   malaysniac 

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 01:42 AM

Possibly dumb question from a guy asking for a friend with a Trillogy Competition:

If I were to buy an E-Blade kit with eyes, is there a way to mount the eyes with out making another hole in the body (besides the detent hole)? My friend really wanted to do an E-Blade, but doesn't know how to mount eyes. Help.
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#41 User is offline   syko 

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 03:12 AM

The eblade doesn't work with the trilogy.
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#42 User is offline   Rattlesnake 

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 06:20 PM

alright...heres my issue...I have the competition SF, and I can easily out-walk the 18bps on semi...but I'm prety sure the ZeroB board by Planet Eclipse wont work...so my question is:

Are there any other boards that I can buy for my SF trilogy?...or will the ZeroB board work?...
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#43 User is offline   zWarlord 

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 10:58 PM

methinks you have a *little* bounce if you are going that fast on semi consistently. The Eblade does work with the trilly, but you would need to get the front solenoid adaptor for the trilogy markers, and that wont be easy. And you dont have to have the eyes on the eblade, it just helps....alot. But no, there is no other way to mount the eyes. If you download the E2 manual it will give you a template for drilling the eye holes, and tell you what tap to use to thread it.
As for other boards, no i dont think so. I think that scenario dreams might be working on one, but nothing yet.

But honestly if you do get an E2 the frame will be worth more than the marker.

This post has been edited by zWarlord: 24 December 2007 - 11:01 PM

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#44 User is offline   xXRoNiNXx 

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Posted 05 January 2008 - 10:52 AM

I have a trilogy competition and a WGP double hinge trigger frame. I've tried to install the double trigger before, when I did, the gun fired, but the gas started going straight through the gun. I recently bought the trilogy shaft kit in hopes of finally using the $60 trigger I bought, but I'm not exactly sure how to install it. I want to have a trigger pull that's much shorter than the stock trilogy. If anybody could help me in the installation and timing issues that I'm sure will follow, I would greatly appreciate it.
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#45 User is offline   zWarlord 

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Posted 08 January 2008 - 08:58 PM

go to the TechT website, they have the instalation instructions if yours didnt come with it.
But, here it she simple version:
-take off the stock cocking rod
-insert the new 3-way actuator into the 3-way (lube those o-rings)
-move it far enough foreward to allow enough clearance to insert the slider into the hole in the frame
-screw the rod into the slider.
-from here the timing is no different than a normal cocker. Adjust the timing with a small flat head screwdriver on the front of the actuating rod.
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