Special Ops Paintball: 2000 Shocktech Autococker - Special Ops Paintball

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2000 Shocktech Autococker I'm very new to the marker and could use pointers. Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   TheReaper 

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Posted 09 March 2008 - 04:17 PM

So, I finally got tired with my shoddy A-5 and bought my friend's Autococker for $80 with a Proto barrel. The marker itself is all factory default, to my knowledge, except for an On/Off Smart Parts ASA that is connected to the marker using some kind of Empire block thingy. I will be replacing it with a CP On/Off soon. What I would like to know is how to time the marker if I should ever have to, how to tinker it, and most importantly maintenance. I will snap some photos of this beauty here in awhile once I'm finished cleaning it, and after I've learned how to lubricate and clean the important parts.
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#2 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 09 March 2008 - 07:06 PM

Photos are important... Shocktech cockers generally have Bombs and Hinges, but if it has either a slider, or a non-bomb 3-way it's gonna time differently.
Shocktech rams have an extra-long throw, so you might need to adjust the length of the pump arm/ cocking rod. When the ram is fully extended, the hammer lug should not contact the back of its milled slot in the body. The FGP reg is good, the bomb is snappy, and the ram is smooth, usually, if it's a full Shocktech front end. The frames can be weird sometimes if it's a hinge... a slider usually is a Danny Love job, top notch. Uhmm... yeah, usually, great gun. Just check that ram throw, and make sure to understand the timing differences. A Slider and a Bomb time like a hinge and regular 3-way. A hinge and bomb time backwards, as do a slider and regular three-way. And if the bomb feels to snappy, turn down the LPR pressure, and use softer springing. Most Shocktech guns have very stiff hammer springs, and/ or light valve springs, which can be problematic for fine-tuning. A matched set, like Maddmans, could be good.
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#3 User is offline   TheReaper 

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 01:33 PM

As much as I appreciate the help, it may as well have been in German, lol. I'm VERY new to the marker so you lost me a bit throughout your explanation. It is timed at the moment, but I love to tinker and I hear these markers are great for just that.
Here are some pictures:

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#4 User is offline   aqua_scummm 

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 01:54 PM

Don't touch anything till you use it for a few days of play to feel how it works, as well as study, in a non feeling more sensing type of way, how it works.


You have a slider trigger, not a hinge. I like sliders more, lots of adjustability, and great feel.

A Bomb is a shocktech 3 way. I can't tell who made your front block, but I like the oldschool look of it.

Play with it, figure out whats going on, ask the local ref who's a cocker freak (there's always at least one ref like that), then touch it :happy:
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#5 User is offline   thebostinian 

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 03:47 PM

yeah, it doesn't look bad. unfortunately, i don't have time right now to translate what nate said (i'm taking a quick break from studying for my calc II test) but he should have time later tonight/tomorrow. he's an engineering major, so the language is a little dense, but he can be more elementary if you're not grasping what he says initially. mighty mike may have the time to help, but i can't speak for him.

quickly: your gun's decent, especially for the price you got it for. however, you're gonna need to put some money into it to make it really stand out and perform at a very high level. but aqua is right, take it out, play with it, then decide what you think needs to be done.

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#6 User is offline   Mighty Mike 

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 09:04 PM

View Postthebostinian, on Mar 10 2008, 03:47 PM, said:

yeah, it doesn't look bad. unfortunately, i don't have time right now to translate what nate said (i'm taking a quick break from studying for my calc II test) but he should have time later tonight/tomorrow. he's an engineering major, so the language is a little dense, but he can be more elementary if you're not grasping what he says initially. mighty mike may have the time to help, but i can't speak for him.

quickly: your gun's decent, especially for the price you got it for. however, you're gonna need to put some money into it to make it really stand out and perform at a very high level. but aqua is right, take it out, play with it, then decide what you think needs to be done.

sweet i got mentioned :) but I guess when I spend most of my team here or in the pump section you'll see a lot of my posts...

you have a slider, but I don't believe thats a bomb, at least it doesnt look like any bomb i've ever seen. if it isn't one, someone correct me here, you're going to have to time "backwards." basically everything on the gun you can tinker with or change out. the rod in the back is also part of timing and you need to unscrew it to get at the ivg which adjust velocity. the rod in the back(timing rod) is used to adjust how far the bolt sticks out when the back block is cocked. unless you have a delrin bolt you will need to oil the orings on the bolt, but for the most part that is all you will need to lube. read all the stickies and if you come across any problems we're always helpful in here
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#7 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 10 March 2008 - 09:16 PM

Beautiful gun... I wouldn't change a thing.

The frontblock is Shocktech, either pre-Bomb or someone just didn't like the Bomb. Standard, 2-oring 4-way valve. The 4 way valve is on the Front Block, and is the small chrome part linked to the trigger frame via the Timing Rod.

The big, fat chrome thing is your LPR, low pressure regulator. The model is the Shocktech FGP, and it's good. The ram is the long skinny piece, and is also Shocktech. Also good.

Read the timing sticky to understand what "timing" is. Go to this link for a video of exactly how your gun works, and is set up. http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/animations...ococker_wgp.gif
Note the way the trigger both controls when the Hammer drops, as well as the way it is linked to your 4-way valve. This is the heart and soul of an Autococker.

This doesn't affect you now, but write it down for future reference. 2000 autococker, but 1999 backblock and bolt. If you ever buy a new bolt it has to be a "99 style".

Read up, NICE grab, and welcome to the cult!
Feedback.
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#8 User is offline   Chaos Fiend 

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Posted 11 March 2008 - 06:57 PM

Great looking cocker. A great one for your first. As aqua said, don't mess with it until you know what you are doing.
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#9 User is offline   TheReaper 

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Posted 12 March 2008 - 07:02 PM

Sometimes when I shoot, it just drops out of the barrel a few feet in front of me, then the next shot will be perfect and other times it will shoot correctly but kinda makes an irregular report after i fire

Oh, and here's a pic of the full setup.

Posted Image
'00 Shocktech Autococker
Proto Barrel
Smart Parts On/Off ASA
Empire Reloader
Pure Energy 68/4500 Carbon Fiber Tank w/ Hybrid Bottle Cover
.45 Trigger Frame
.45 Grip

This post has been edited by TheReaper: 12 March 2008 - 07:08 PM

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#10 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 12 March 2008 - 07:56 PM

The low velocity shots are probably caused by roll-outs. You need a paint that "sticks" ever so lightly to the barrel, otherwise between shots the paintball will roll far enough down, that it can't get up to speed before leaving the muzzle. A barrel kit would help, with a variety of differently sized backs.

The irregular report, don't worry about. It's probably "valve burps", or hammer bounce, which is an issue you shouldn't try to fix quite yet. Wait until a little later, after you've shot the cocker a few times. It requires you remove all the lower-tube internals to swap out springs, which is no easy task.
Feedback.
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#11 User is offline   thebostinian 

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Posted 12 March 2008 - 08:19 PM

View Postflyweightnate, on Mar 12 2008, 10:56 PM, said:

The irregular report, don't worry about. It's probably "valve burps", or hammer bounce, which is an issue you shouldn't try to fix quite yet. Wait until a little later, after you've shot the cocker a few times. It requires you remove all the lower-tube internals to swap out springs, which is no easy task.

yeah, don't do that on your own. find somebody who knows what they're doing, and walk through it with them. otherwise it leads to lots of profanity and possibly lost/damaged parts, which in turn leads to a lighter wallet.

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#12 User is offline   TheReaper 

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Posted 15 March 2008 - 12:15 PM

Yeah, after many visits to the shop I learned not to repair my markers on my own.
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#13 User is offline   thebostinian 

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Posted 15 March 2008 - 12:21 PM

View PostTheReaper, on Mar 15 2008, 03:15 PM, said:

Yeah, after many visits to the shop I learned not to repair my markers on my own.

repairing on your own isn't bad, as long as you know what you're doing. next time you're at the shop and they're working on your gun, pay attention, ask some questions, etc.

knowledge is power, especially when it comes to cockers.

"Yeah, but a thread that started out as borderline weird and creepy to begin with has now taken a left turn into 'Deliverance." - Violator
Don't try to pronounce the second "o". Instead, try realize the truth: there is no second "o"
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#14 User is offline   flyweightnate 

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Posted 15 March 2008 - 11:12 PM

I feel powerful.
Feedback.
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#15 User is offline   Aim for the trash 

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Posted 16 March 2008 - 08:37 AM

You are a god.
You have failed as a paintballer.
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