Special Ops Paintball: P90 & FN2000 Ion Mods - Special Ops Paintball

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P90 & FN2000 Ion Mods by FunkyDiver at Milsimog forums. Amazing!

#16 User is offline   gamer 

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Posted 19 November 2007 - 08:40 PM

great mod. looks very clean and solid. well done indeed.

i see you are using the lucky body kit. nice to have a bolt out back system, especially when accessing the bolt is tricky with that body kit. I am looking to do my own Ion mod with the bolt out back ion xe.

hey funky. in order to get the feedneck coming out at a 45 degree angle did you just slant then entire Ion on that angle, or somehow change just the feedneck angle? That angle is perfect, and would be a great match with the q loader sp8 kit.
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#17 User is offline   Funky Diver 

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Posted 20 November 2007 - 02:49 AM

Just rotated the marker in the body matey.
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#18 User is offline   DZ Unit-1 

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Posted 20 November 2007 - 03:09 AM

i thinking about fitting my extra etek in a fn2000, i can't wait to try, i'll prolly practice on an ion first
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#19 User is offline   WarCowboy 

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Posted 23 November 2007 - 08:01 AM

If your going to mod a Etek, dont waste your time by practicing on an ion.
Nothing similar in respect to how it would have to be done.
Im not sure why you would want to use an Etek anyhow...
The ion will do what you need it to, trust me, and besides... The ion can be had cheap, and the rounded tube of the firing-can will make things easier when it comes to tilting that feed neck over.
Think about it a bit, before you messup that Etek. To nice of a marker to hack up imo. But its your call.
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#20 User is offline   Ravenlord 

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Posted 23 November 2007 - 08:11 AM

The only thing other then an Ion that I would put into another body then the original one is the Automag. Would be a pain because I would need to hack yp the old body. The reason that I would do that is because it is easier to mod a single tube marker then it is to mod a stacked or dual tube marker.

First I need to finish the Automag mod that I'm making. Then I have to work on the Bolt Action that I want. Then I think that I will get an Ion and a FN2000 body. Might take a while but it will be worth it.
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#21 User is offline   Funky Diver 

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Posted 23 November 2007 - 01:19 PM

It does depend on the conversion you're doing of course. The Etek is PERFECT for a certain series of rifles, but I'll leave that to another time and another thread :o
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#22 User is offline   blackcelldrumr15 

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 05:07 PM

Hey Funky, where did you get those airsoft bodies? Did you buy the guns themselves or just the bodies? Looking at these mods has kinda inspired me, I have some money and I think I might try my hand at modding an Ion also.
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#23 User is offline   WarCowboy 

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 09:26 PM

You can buy them anywhere.
Just google the style of gun you want, and then put the word airsoft in the box with the gun of your choice.
You'll get loads of sights for each one if the model you are after is manufactured from an airsoft company.
Another easy way to find what your after, is to do the above and search it for pictures.
Once you see the picture of the airsoft you want, you can just click on the thumb nail to go directly to the page with that particular picture and gun you want.
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#24 User is offline   blackcelldrumr15 

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 03:23 PM

Thanks WarCowboy. I found a nice P90 on evike.com that I think I'm going to use. Any advice or pointers from anyone? Maybe things that you have found that help?
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#25 User is offline   WarCowboy 

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 09:04 PM

Well, I would sugest taking your time to learn the layout of both the internal side of the airsoft, and the paintball marker also. Once you undestand how you will lay things out, then you will have a good idea of what needs to be done to suport the internals. Some use fillers of different types, I use the webbing of the original inerior design with added padding to modify it just enough to hold the new internals in place accordingly, and this seems to give me a fuller suporting structure in my opinion.
Once you think an idea, and procedure of how your going to mount it good, be sure to take what you've desided and analize this as if it where in final function. Make double sure everything will work as planned.
Once you devised a set plan, then and only then should you make permenant cuts, or holes in places you wont be sorry about if it doesnt work right the first time.
But if you have patience, and some basic fabrication skills, you should have no problem with your moding experience.
If you dont have a dremel tool, you should really get one, or borrow someones. They are invaluable to this sorta thing.
Good luck, and be sure to post up if you get the time. ~WC~
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#26 User is offline   blackcelldrumr15 

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 10:53 PM

Thanks for the advice! The funny thing is, I JUST went and bought a Dremel about 30 minutes ago so I could make the P90! I'll keep you guys updated on how it turns out!
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#27 User is offline   blackcelldrumr15 

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Posted 23 December 2007 - 11:22 PM

Hey guys, I was wondering how you managed to get the mircoswitch off the board and mounted around the trigger (if thats what you did). I was looking at the board and I didn't know any other way other than taking a soldering gun and heating up the solder around the points its connected to the board, and pulling it off. Then re-wiring it all back to the board from the trigger. Any advice?
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#28 User is offline   Funky Diver 

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Posted 24 December 2007 - 04:17 AM

I personally wire in a new switch, and tape in a spacer on the old switch. Means the board is easier to flick back into the host marker.
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#29 User is offline   WarCowboy 

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Posted 25 December 2007 - 01:19 AM

Yeah, I pretty much do what Diver says he does also.
I go a slightly different route with the way I do this however.
I find that the power button is in a bad location, so I also remote the on/off, and programming switch to the rear of the marker. This is something that is usually requested from those that I build the mod for.
Makes it very easy to operate, and eliminates the need to cut holes in the shell.
This is more of a permanent modification, however not impossible to convert back.
Another way to do this, is with the use of a virtue board and DM4 membrain pad, or one similar in function from another company, such as APE, and T-boards. If you have one of these boards already they will easily adapt for remote location.
I am currently learning how to mod a stock board for compatibility with a DM4 pad for a standard practice with all the mods I build.
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#30 User is offline   gameystar333 

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Posted 28 December 2007 - 05:52 AM

looking good and has that led veiwer spot that is very nice i would love to have one
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