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A-5 problems Cyclone? Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   FrozenCannuk 

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 12:12 PM

Ok. I finally got my gun working and used it for the first time yesterday. I went on an outlaw field with some of my friends. It seemed like it was shooting good, at first. The first 12 ounce tank didn't even last me 200 shots, close to 125 actually, and after another 250 or so on the next tank, i ran out again. and then i threw a 20 on it. it was about half full, and midway through a game, i shot, and then that was it. The gun would not fire. It was cocked, it had air, it just didn't fire. It seemed like the sear wasn't even touching it. So i took the tank off, and took my stock off, checked it out, pulled the trigger out and cleaned it (it was kinda greasy). but thyen dumbfounded i put it back on and it seemed to work fine. I shot some more, then i relized the cyclone was feeding every second shot.... I'm thinking these problems could have to do with either not enough air, or maybe the homemade pin that goes in the spring that pushes the rear bolt forward (a nail i ground down to fin, about the same size as the pin, which i lost when i stock broke off while pressurized.... I also have no push pins... i use bolts instead, and the set screw that holds in the cyclone to the gun, well seems like i lost that on the way... so i used a bolt instead, which i also ground down to size, but i was in a hurry so i just ground it so that it didn't seem to make contact with anything in the cyclone.

Well if you were nice or curious enough to read that, and you could help me, then i would much appreciate it.
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#2 User is offline   slinkyaroo 

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 12:26 PM

First thing that comes to my mind is a cracked power tube. After that the regular stuff:

1. Check rear bolt/sear for wear (but should still fire when cocked on mech A5's)
2. Check rear bolt o-ring for wear.
3. Worn rear spring.
4. Lube marker and clean.
5. Make sure casing screws are snug but not too tight.

If this has an E-grip then there's other options.


.

This post has been edited by slinkyaroo: 08 June 2009 - 12:28 PM

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#3 User is offline   druid 

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 01:55 PM

Slinky's pretty much got it.

I'd also add that you should check the alignment of the banjo bolts, connecting the hose that feeds the cyclone. Remove the banjo bolts and you will see a hole bored through that pin. not the orientation of that hole in relation to the screwdriver slot in the top of the bolt. Mine are perpendicular to each other. Reinstall the banjo bolt that the hole is in-line with the hose. That bolt does NOT have to be tight to the receiver/plunger housing...it can be up to one turn loose. Align the holes to the hose to maximize the flow to the cyclone.

If you overtighten the bolts that connect the receiver halves, it won't recock properly or release when supposed to.

Polish the top and rear of your sear...and the notch in the striker that the sear engages. Don't remove material, polish.

If you shoot fast (even for a mech trigger), the bottle will ice up and "equalize"...giving you poor performance. When the bottle warms up, it shoots good again, right?

If you are using an E-Trigger, the battery has to be a good one...duracell, etc...or it won't trip the sear after a while because it's not strong enough. If you use a crappy battery, it will cause you issues.

Also, when's the last time you greased your cyclone internals and oiled the ORing inside the push rod housing?

Grease on the cyclone...NOT oil. Sleek, shocker lube, shocktech butta....something with DOW33. Use that on the axle and linkage area for best performance.
Oil on the plunger oring inside the tube...NOT grease.
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#4 User is offline   FrozenCannuk 

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Posted 08 June 2009 - 10:44 PM

View Postdruid, on Jun 8 2009, 01:55 PM, said:

Slinky's pretty much got it.

I'd also add that you should check the alignment of the banjo bolts, connecting the hose that feeds the cyclone. Remove the banjo bolts and you will see a hole bored through that pin. not the orientation of that hole in relation to the screwdriver slot in the top of the bolt. Mine are perpendicular to each other. Reinstall the banjo bolt that the hole is in-line with the hose. That bolt does NOT have to be tight to the receiver/plunger housing...it can be up to one turn loose. Align the holes to the hose to maximize the flow to the cyclone.

Ok, so align the screwdriver slots perpendicular?


If you overtighten the bolts that connect the receiver halves, it won't recock properly or release when supposed to.

Well i threw bolts in instead of push-pins, and i don't think i tightened them that much, but that could very well have done it. I've been looking for a full a-5 parts kit for cheap, but no luck yet.


Polish the top and rear of your sear...and the notch in the striker that the sear engages. Don't remove material, polish.

Ok so what would i use to polish, without removing material? Scotch pad would work right?

If you shoot fast (even for a mech trigger), the bottle will ice up and "equalize"...giving you poor performance. When the bottle warms up, it shoots good again, right?

I don't think thats it, cause it just ran out when i was shooting, and i wasn't even shooting that fast, and i gave it a break and same thing.

If you are using an E-Trigger, the battery has to be a good one...duracell, etc...or it won't trip the sear after a while because it's not strong enough. If you use a crappy battery, it will cause you issues.

Nope. Thats not it. E-triggers hurt my wallet lol.

Also, when's the last time you greased your cyclone internals and oiled the ORing inside the push rod housing?

Grease on the cyclone...NOT oil. Sleek, shocker lube, shocktech butta....something with DOW33. Use that on the axle and linkage area for best performance.
Oil on the plunger oring inside the tube...NOT grease.

I Honestly thought it was like a one time deal, but i never really asked anyone that knew. Ok i'll try that. But getting some decent grease might be hard and expensive, is there anythng else you'd expect to find in a hick town of 5000 that could work?


Ok thats really helpfull. I think no school for me tomorrow, so i'll probably try all that out. Thanks a lot.

Edit: spelling

This post has been edited by FrozenCannuk: 08 June 2009 - 10:46 PM

Stupidity killed the cat, Curiosity was blamed.
Vegetarian- (adj) An old Navajo word for "Bad Hunter"
Jesus may be able to walk on water, but chuck norris can swim through dry land
Some people are alive for the simple reason that it is illegal to shoot them
My feedback My Wishlist How To Prevent Gear Theft
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#5 User is offline   druid 

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Posted 09 June 2009 - 12:17 AM

View PostFrozenCannuk, on Jun 9 2009, 01:44 AM, said:

View Postdruid, on Jun 8 2009, 01:55 PM, said:

Slinky's pretty much got it.

I'd also add that you should check the alignment of the banjo bolts, connecting the hose that feeds the cyclone. Remove the banjo bolts and you will see a hole bored through that pin. not the orientation of that hole in relation to the screwdriver slot in the top of the bolt. Mine are perpendicular to each other. Reinstall the banjo bolt that the hole is in-line with the hose. That bolt does NOT have to be tight to the receiver/plunger housing...it can be up to one turn loose. Align the holes to the hose to maximize the flow to the cyclone.

Ok, so align the screwdriver slots perpendicular?
yes, provided that the holes in your pins are identical to mine. If you look at the screwdriver slot and the holes are perpendicular to them, yes, align the screwdriver slots perpendicular to the hose.

If you overtighten the bolts that connect the receiver halves, it won't recock properly or release when supposed to.

Well i threw bolts in instead of push-pins, and i don't think i tightened them that much, but that could very well have done it. I've been looking for a full a-5 parts kit for cheap, but no luck yet.
You are actually better off getting the expensive pins. They can and will take the pounding better and the springs at the ends are stronger.

Polish the top and rear of your sear...and the notch in the striker that the sear engages. Don't remove material, polish.

Ok so what would i use to polish, without removing material? Scotch pad would work right?
The Scotch pad will remove the outer coating yes, but you want to polish the steel so that it looks like a chromed knife blade. Using a Dremel/rotory tool with a cotton drum attachment....or a polishing agent like Mother's Mag polish, rag and elbow grease is what you need to do. When you get it nice and shiny, lightly coat it with oil or WD40 to prevent rust.

If you shoot fast (even for a mech trigger), the bottle will ice up and "equalize"...giving you poor performance. When the bottle warms up, it shoots good again, right?

I don't think thats it, cause it just ran out when i was shooting, and i wasn't even shooting that fast, and i gave it a break and same thing.

If you are using an E-Trigger, the battery has to be a good one...duracell, etc...or it won't trip the sear after a while because it's not strong enough. If you use a crappy battery, it will cause you issues.

Nope. Thats not it. E-triggers hurt my wallet lol.

Also, when's the last time you greased your cyclone internals and oiled the ORing inside the push rod housing?

Grease on the cyclone...NOT oil. Sleek, shocker lube, shocktech butta....something with DOW33. Use that on the axle and linkage area for best performance.
Oil on the plunger oring inside the tube...NOT grease.

I Honestly thought it was like a one time deal, but i never really asked anyone that knew. Ok i'll try that. But getting some decent grease might be hard and expensive, is there anythng else you'd expect to find in a hick town of 5000 that could work?

Any kind of Dow33 or white lithium grease will work. Perhaps a fishing reel grease that is NOT graphite might do (white lithium). If you didn't live in Canada, I'd have sent you a dab or two for it...but Customs is a bear and I'd rather avoid that hastle.
Ok thats really helpfull. I think no school for me tomorrow, so i'll probably try all that out. Thanks a lot.

Edit: spelling




No prob. Maintenence isn't a non-existent thing with the A5s. It does require an occasional tear down to keep running well.
Warped A5; M98; 68 Magnum w/ AGD 6-Pack, Automaggot #92 Custom Modder #5
"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end."
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#6 User is offline   FrozenCannuk 

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Posted 16 June 2009 - 02:48 PM

Hey Thanks for the help. It worked until my tombstone started leaking and then broke off. So i need a new tombstone and asa. And a full a-5 parts kit i guess.
Stupidity killed the cat, Curiosity was blamed.
Vegetarian- (adj) An old Navajo word for "Bad Hunter"
Jesus may be able to walk on water, but chuck norris can swim through dry land
Some people are alive for the simple reason that it is illegal to shoot them
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#7 User is offline   Bone37 

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Posted 16 June 2009 - 03:40 PM

View PostFrozenCannuk, on Jun 16 2009, 04:48 PM, said:

Hey Thanks for the help. It worked until my tombstone started leaking and then broke off. So i need a new tombstone and asa. And a full a-5 parts kit i guess.



"tombstone started leaking and then broke off"
So how did it break off, it just spontaneously broke off on its own accord?
I don't get it, sounds like you bought the most poorly made A-5 ever.
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#8 User is offline   FrozenCannuk 

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 12:13 PM

View PostBone37, on Jun 16 2009, 03:40 PM, said:

View PostFrozenCannuk, on Jun 16 2009, 04:48 PM, said:

Hey Thanks for the help. It worked until my tombstone started leaking and then broke off. So i need a new tombstone and asa. And a full a-5 parts kit i guess.



"tombstone started leaking and then broke off"
So how did it break off, it just spontaneously broke off on its own accord?
I don't get it, sounds like you bought the most poorly made A-5 ever.



Well the hose broke off the the tombstone. It was in pretty rough shape when i got it, and it's in rougher shape now
Stupidity killed the cat, Curiosity was blamed.
Vegetarian- (adj) An old Navajo word for "Bad Hunter"
Jesus may be able to walk on water, but chuck norris can swim through dry land
Some people are alive for the simple reason that it is illegal to shoot them
My feedback My Wishlist How To Prevent Gear Theft
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#9 User is offline   Bone37 

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Posted 17 June 2009 - 06:28 PM

View PostFrozenCannuk, on Jun 17 2009, 02:13 PM, said:

View PostBone37, on Jun 16 2009, 03:40 PM, said:

View PostFrozenCannuk, on Jun 16 2009, 04:48 PM, said:

Hey Thanks for the help. It worked until my tombstone started leaking and then broke off. So i need a new tombstone and asa. And a full a-5 parts kit i guess.



"tombstone started leaking and then broke off"
So how did it break off, it just spontaneously broke off on its own accord?
I don't get it, sounds like you bought the most poorly made A-5 ever.



Well the hose broke off the the tombstone. It was in pretty rough shape when i got it, and it's in rougher shape now


You got it used?
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