Special Ops Paintball: I just want a great remote line... - Special Ops Paintball

Jump to content


  • (2 Pages)
  • +
  • 1
  • 2
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

I just want a great remote line... Rate Topic: -----

#16 User is offline   Tommikka 

  • Tom
  • PipPipPipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 811
  • Joined: 28-May 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Salisbury, UK
  • Brigade Name:tommikka

Posted 31 October 2009 - 08:52 AM

View PostScath an Bhais, on Oct 30 2009, 04:07 PM, said:

I guess i should ask this before i get too much further. If i play without a remote, and my tank is attached to my gun, i usually just unscrew my tank from the gun without doing anything else first. Is this wrong?

I only ask, because it sorta seem like thats what you would be doing if you didnt shoot all of the air out of your line before disconnecting it.
Thanks again



I think there is still confusion about what a quick disconnect does. (Or in the US you refer to it differently to us in the UK)

Quick disconnect is only the type of fitting. It does not have a valve to close the air.

When you have the bottle direct to the marker and unscrew it the valve on the bottle closes so the only air lost is that just out of the bottle, and a small amount until the vlave closes.
If you have the bottle on a remote line and removed it from the marker the bottles valve will still be open so the air line will still be pressurised. Air would blow out.

Look at Gers picture above that names the components:

Note the ASA has a male QD male nipple.
The end of the airline has a QD female end.
(These are the same fittings as the bottles male fill nipple and a female QD on the fill line)

On Gers picture the slide check is a valve.
The slide check is a valve that slides open or closed.
A ball valve is a valve that is literally turned to open or close.


To remove a remote line that does not have a valve you have to unscrew the bolt on the top of the bottle connection to turn off the air, then fire the marker to depressurise the air in the line, then you can release the QD. This way you may have to fire multiple shots.
If you attempt to release the QD it will be hard because of the pressure, you may not even be able to open it.

With a slide check or ball valve you can turn off the air at the end of the line allowing you to remove the QD. You should be able to remove it without firing any shots, if it is too tight then you can release the pressure with one shot.

On Palmers this is a QD:
Quick disconnect

On Palmers this is a ball valve:
Ball valve

An alternate option is the 'Pro connect':
Pro connect

The Pro connect is an alternate connection to the QD, but it incorporates a valve.

I would recommend you go for either of:
1 - a remote line with a QD and either of a slide check or a ball valve.
2 - a remote line with a Pro connect.

This post has been edited by Tommikka: 31 October 2009 - 08:54 AM

0

#17 User is offline   BAGELS 

  • good stuff^
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 1,676
  • Joined: 10-January 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Central MA
  • Brigade Name:I3agels

Posted 08 November 2009 - 04:57 PM

I had no idea that CP made a coiled remote. I am willing to bet that it is the best that you can buy. CP makes quality stuff.

THE INVISI-SIG!
I have no sig, because I am cool like that.
I love my phantom, because it is cool like that....schweet
0

#18 User is offline   BONUSROUND 

  • Sophomore Member
  • PipPipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 325
  • Joined: 11-November 05
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Wilsonville, OR
  • Brigade Name:BONUSROUND

Posted 09 November 2009 - 10:51 AM

This is what I have learned from many years of running remote lines. The parts of a standard remote hose are: ASA, hose, slide-check (optional), 1/8 inch on/off ball valve (optional), quick disconnect (optional), and male ASA fitting.

1. The ASA that your tank screws into is “best if it is self-venting” (my personal feelings). When you unscrew the on/off knob the gas in the remote hose should bleed out of the hose and release all the pressure in the ASA fitting. This saves your tank O-ring from getting sliced up by the ASA threads. Most remotes do not have this feature but CP remotes do! Or you could buy a self-venting on/off ASA.
2. As for the remote hose, that is up to you. Coiled hoses catch on fewer things than straight hoses, as well as, you can get coiled remote hose covers from Spec. OPS.
3. Slide checks, 1/8-inch on/off (ball valve), and male ASA fitting all have good things and bad things about them. I have taken both apart and know how they work.
Here is the lowdown on the slide check.
Parts of the slide are:
1. The shaft, a rod the ends are drilled out and threaded (one end male the other female) but with a center divider; and two holes drilled on the side of shaft one on each side of the divider. The male end has an o-ring stopper to stop the barrel from sliding off.
2. The Barrel, this is a metal collar with two tank O-rings on the inside, one at each end
Posted Image
The slide check is a self-venting valve. The gas flows from the tank through the remote hose into one end of the shaft through a side hole into the barrel through the second side hole and out the other end. The problem with this design is that the front o-ring (o-ring that is inside the barrel towards the marker) slides back and forth over a side hole; this hole ends up cutting this o-ring up and causes the slide check to leek. The self venting part is good because it allows you to use a quick disconnect more easily, so you don’t have to carry your marker everywhere you go.
Here is the lowdown on the 1/8inch on/off.
It is easier to replace than to fix. This is only an on/off and does not self-vent!
When you turn the knob to the off position both the marker and remote hose are under pressure and you cannot use the quick disconnect until you bleed the air out of the marker (shoot the marker dry).
4. Here is the lowdown on the male ASA fitting. All standard remotes use the male ASA, although you can use the male fitting (with 1/8inch on/off) to degas your marker. This will still put unnecessary wear on the o-ring.

I would recommend running this set-up for a remote hose; On/off ASA, Coiled remote hose, 1/8inch on/off, quick disconnect, Male ASA fitting, On/off ASA on your marker. This is the best system I have found for running a remote. It allows you to save on all your o-rings. Easy to degas marker: turn the 1/8inch on/off to the off position, unscrew the ASA knob on the marker, disconnect the quick disconnect. This not only degases the marker, saves the air in the remote hose, and you won’t have to take all your gear off when you want to put down your marker.

This post has been edited by BONUSROUND: 09 November 2009 - 04:38 PM

Audacity is a sword that needs to be drawn from time to time.
http://www.specialopspaintball.com/brigade...ew.asp?id=46213
0

#19 User is offline   mtaylor 

  • Lacking Creativity
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 3,145
  • Joined: 14-June 07
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Edmonton, AB
  • Brigade Name:mtaylor

Posted 15 November 2009 - 08:52 PM

The newer Milsig remotes have a Proconnect style QD. I would go for one of those for sure.

<Insert Sig Here>
0

#20 User is offline   Lao Yan Qiang 

  • Forum Member
  • PipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 111
  • Joined: 23-February 07

Posted 20 November 2009 - 03:02 PM

View PostScath an Bhais, on Oct 29 2009, 11:00 PM, said:

And also, quick disconnect sounds like alot of pointless work, seems like "quick disconnect" just makes you blow o-rings.

So, i want to know if there is a remote line out there that is better than the rest. If the only air im wasting is going to be in the line, i dont want a slide check. I dont want quick disconnect.

I want something that works.


Well you can always just take the quick dis-connect off, screw the hose straight into the C/A adapter, and the only thing that could possibly ever go wrong would be the one o-ring in the UFA. And that is a rare , rare thing. You will find out very quickly though that pulling the tank out of its pouch every time you want to put your gun down will be a royal pain in the butt.

If you want the best though, I think this one is. Proconnet 3 remote.
0

#21 User is offline   Tim Burton 

  • Forum Member
  • PipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 192
  • Joined: 01-July 08
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Phoenix, AZ - USA

Posted 24 November 2009 - 12:53 AM

View PostLao Yan Qiang, on Nov 20 2009, 03:02 PM, said:

Well you can always just take the quick dis-connect off, screw the hose straight into the C/A adapter, and the only thing that could possibly ever go wrong would be the one o-ring in the UFA. And that is a rare , rare thing. You will find out very quickly though that pulling the tank out of its pouch every time you want to put your gun down will be a royal pain in the butt.

If you want the best though, I think this one is. Proconnet 3 remote.


Do you have to do that "quarter turn back so the air keeps flowing" thing?
0

#22 User is offline   Lao Yan Qiang 

  • Forum Member
  • PipPip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 111
  • Joined: 23-February 07

Posted 24 November 2009 - 06:18 PM

View PostTim Burton, on Nov 24 2009, 12:53 AM, said:

View PostLao Yan Qiang, on Nov 20 2009, 03:02 PM, said:

Well you can always just take the quick dis-connect off, screw the hose straight into the C/A adapter, and the only thing that could possibly ever go wrong would be the one o-ring in the UFA. And that is a rare , rare thing. You will find out very quickly though that pulling the tank out of its pouch every time you want to put your gun down will be a royal pain in the butt.

If you want the best though, I think this one is. Proconnet 3 remote.


Do you have to do that "quarter turn back so the air keeps flowing" thing?


Huh? Are you talking about the UFA (Universal Fill Adapter) ? The part you screw your tank into? If so.......the proper way to turn on your tank is to screw the knob down until you feel the remote pressurize......then turn it one full turn more. I see people all the time with the knob screwed all the way down. This can lead to the depressing pin in the UFA blocking the hole in the pin valve and blocking the gas from coming out of the tank. This in turn leads to people saying remotes suck because they cause their gun to shoot down, not re-cock, have erratic velocity, and a host of other problems.
0

Share this topic:


  • (2 Pages)
  • +
  • 1
  • 2
  • You cannot start a new topic
  • You cannot reply to this topic

1 User(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users