Special Ops Paintball: How-to: Make your own grenades - Special Ops Paintball

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How-to: Make your own grenades Uses washer and cotter pin for "trigger" -- PICS!

#421 User is offline   S.T.A.R.S XO. Short 

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Posted 05 July 2007 - 12:39 PM

Ok, washable is a very lose term here. If you waited untill it dried there is now way to get it out, but if you get it while it is still wet your fine. I don't know if you have noticed or not but paintballs if left on two long will also stain.
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#422 User is offline   Midnight Phenom 

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Posted 05 July 2007 - 07:31 PM

that was BOMB ba da tish :happy:
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#423 User is offline   NOODLES322 

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Posted 06 July 2007 - 09:56 PM

How much would it cost to make say 15 of those about half sized? like the size of an M67.
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#424 User is offline   jmsiona 

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Posted 08 July 2007 - 07:12 PM

i found that 3 inches, and about 3 ounces is a great throwable size
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#425 User is offline   Dauragon 

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 09:21 PM

I know someone already said this, but I think the fill in Tippmann's SBs is ground chaulk and water too. I think I'm going to try that as a fill.
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#426 User is offline   Dack9 

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Posted 13 July 2007 - 01:03 AM

Haven't been around the forums much lately, but for those of you using xanthan gum, or anything really, especially those that have trouble making things mix:

Use a blender!

I've been using a magic bullet and mixing up about 10oz of stuff at a time, and putting it in a jug to draw out of with my syringe. This little device is a godsend, and I would never be able to do it without it. Instead of spending half my production time mixing xanthan gum and paint into water, i can make about 60 oz of ready to use paint miux in about 5 minutes.
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#427 User is offline   Ionizer 

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Posted 25 July 2007 - 10:03 PM

I've read 15 of the pages and haven't read anything on this...

What if you did the 2 chamber type grenade and had baking soda in one side and vinager in the other? Once you took off the rubber band and made it one chamber...splat. One side of the tubing will still be tied off, but could still be folded over with the other side. I think that would work pretty well! Comments?
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#428 User is offline   S.T.A.R.S XO. Short 

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Posted 27 July 2007 - 11:24 AM

Dude I hate to tell you but that does nothing but make a loud pop! I have seen people try that before and the paint goes NOWHERE! We got better affects by just checking them way behind them the when the heard the bang they turned and our 4 man squad would rush and get killer angles on bunkers. Other then the loud pop its useless. Not to mention they are horrid to make. I can make 23 paintgrenades in the time it takes to make a popper
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#429 User is offline   Ionizer 

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Posted 27 July 2007 - 12:42 PM

I saw a youtube video of guys that made a variation of this and it was load and if you could time it right to explode mid-air, paint would go everywhere!

BTW, I made some of the traditional grenades we are talking about here...they turned out great. The hand pump sprayer was SO simple. Pump away and when it gets tough, push the button and it fills right up! I made 6 in about 20 minutes.
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#430 User is offline   S.T.A.R.S XO. Short 

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Posted 29 July 2007 - 07:24 PM

Yeah I was playing in a large scenario they were selling a variation of this style. The problem was they didnt put paint anywhere. People started to complain and they said there were to be thrown right before the explode so paint would be realeased mid-air. They forgot the part that no-one(not even them) knew how long to hold an expanding tube before it burst. So we had more people getting killed by there own grenade then getting shot. It is really way to risky to even try let alone even if it does go off in the air it has to be above your opponent. Trust me you just want to stick with the classic ones. No expoding ones. Also several local fields around here i know, won't allow the use of these at all because of the way they work.
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#431 User is offline   grumpy 

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Posted 10 August 2007 - 06:08 AM

i realy wish people would forget about useing foul smelling stuff in grenade or landmine paint, if this was used on me and i had to go around all smelly for the rest of the game someone would find themselves in the grumpy zone real fast.
if you need a way of knowing for sure that you marked someone with a grenade put some glitter in the grenade, it's not easily wiped off.
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#432 User is offline   MurphNH 

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Posted 30 August 2007 - 01:16 PM

I'm building a bunch of paint grenades for Carter's Commando to use at Fall Castle. I'm using a paint sprayer I got at ace hardware for 13 bucks plus another five bucks worth of hardware to hook up to the tubing. I had a couple successes today, and I also succeeded at finding a couple things that don't work or don't work as well. Today I tested with water.

3/8th od 3/16th id latex tubing is fairly hard to fill up and won't hold a lot of paint (I could only get it to swell out to about an inch and a half in diameter when full), but you get a great spray diameter, I think I got a good fifteen feet when I tossed the first one into my backyard. I discovered the washers I was using wouldn't even fit over the tubing I used, so I gotta go to the hardware store. I also can't get away with using clothes pins to hold the water back. Hemostats are on the shopping list. I don't recall reading this anywhere but stretching the tube really helps get the grenades filled.

This post has been edited by MurphNH: 30 August 2007 - 01:16 PM

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#433 User is offline   goathunter 

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Posted 05 September 2007 - 09:05 AM

When I build my grenades I forgo the washer and use a 3/16" to 1/4" wide ring of the latex tubing(cutoff from the grenade tube).Then I fold over the edge of the filled grenade and use a pair of needle nose pliers to stretch the ring over the fold.This remedies the washer expenses and it times the grenade.With 1/4" wide rings I get 3 bounces consistently before the grenade pops.By varying the width you can get different bounces and popping times.

Just thought I'd throw that out there for people.
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#434 User is offline   Orpackrat 

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Posted 14 September 2007 - 10:14 AM

My grenades have a 1/2" washer on the folded over end of the grenade with a pin above it between the tubing. By simply sliding that washer up and down, you can adjust the sensitivity of the grenade. Close to the pin = detonate on impact, further from the pin = ability to fire from launcher (The pin in only removed half way for firing, the force of the launch moves the washer to the end tubing and is stopped with the half pulled pin and the landing detonates it).
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#435 User is offline   _KEVLAR_ 

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Posted 14 September 2007 - 11:17 AM

I haven't read all the pages here so I don't know if anyone else has had this idea, but I made a grenade using a BB, rubber band, and paper clip to make the trigger.

Like so:

Attached File  grenade_plans.JPG (18.32K)
Number of downloads: 55

sorry I don't have real photos of the grenade(camera's out of batterys and I can't find the charger).

I have tested this design and it works fairly well.
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