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maggots ; what are you building ?? Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   maniacmechanic 

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Posted 18 July 2009 - 05:24 PM

I think just about everybody that owns a mag has a project or 2 ( or 6 or 7 ) allways in the works
post up some pic's , Lets get some AutoMagasm going on here , I'll post mine tomorrow
Hank Emery aka maniacmechanic
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#2 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 06:23 AM

I have my own project in the works right now.
A little custom work and, then some more custom work.
And then a few ghetto-lishious modifycation's

A Pump E-mag!
:)

but seriously, when the time comes i'll post some stuff up.

This post has been edited by Eskimo: 19 July 2009 - 06:23 AM

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#3 User is offline   StealingYerMail 

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Posted 19 July 2009 - 03:14 PM

Nadda. I'm actually trying to think of what to do with my Mag because I am NOT selling it, but it's taken a back seat lately because of my Borg. I was thinking about doing something simple next summer or over the winter... maybe like a Longbow set up or something with a Warp Feed. Not sure.
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#4 User is offline   AaronC 

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Posted 20 July 2009 - 09:00 AM

I bought a micro mag I was going to have some work done to but I actually really like it the way it is so I might just buy a new ASA.
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#5 User is offline   paintslinger99 

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Posted 20 July 2009 - 11:53 AM

1. buy a new screw for my rail to body because mine is almost stripped
2. set up a new air setup because the one I have now is a pain
3. Put a rail into the the rail
4. Metadyne Havoc

:P
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#6 User is offline   Action Fig 

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Posted 24 July 2009 - 12:55 PM

still needs some paint and a trigger guard

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I love this show

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#7 User is offline   Z3R0 

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Posted 24 July 2009 - 02:19 PM

Saving up money to get a ULE body and some kind of double trigger frame, probably an Intelli... gonna see if I can get the school machine shop to press the twistlock assembly out of my RT Pro rail and if not, I should have access to a machine shop next month where I can have it done. Then I'm going to keep saving up and get an RT valve of some kind with ULT and Level 10.

Not going to replace the RT Pro rail though, I think it just looks way too cool, and I think the foregrip distance on it is perfect.

-Z3R0
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Lapco Grey Ghost 2008, Classic Automag, PM8, 06 Cyborg
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#8 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 12:08 PM

Here is my review im doing for my Tac-One for the forum If there is any mixed up information or errors drop me a PM. this is draft.
But it is still a Mag project!

Quote

Hello Special ops members, Forum lurkers, and Guests. My name is Austin. Today i'm going over the Airgun Design, Tac-One.

Before I start, I want to clear this up. Many people ask, "Which is better, the RT custom, or the Tac One?"
Both markers are 90% the same. The only difference is that the Tac One has a Mil-sim mainbody. meaning it has rails and a short barrel shroud extending off the threads. While the RT has whats known as the "ULE body (Ultra Light Engineering) body. which is smaller and lighter, but does not have the rails attached to the mainbody.

Also, when any automag has a Tac One mainbody it becomes a " __-Tac" for example, the "E-Mag" with a Tac One body becomes a "E-Tac"

I have owned this specific Automag for over one year, that's one full year of use indoor and outdoor.
_____________________________

On to the good stuff, AGD was never known to have a fancy box for their markers, infact many people rose questions to why they had the plain box instead of an artistic design on it like all the other boxes, Tom Kaye replied "Simple. It saves money. which means we get to sell you higher quality markers, for less then everyone else. becuase we dont want to spend 25$ on every box just so you can hide it in the closet of your room."

So when your plain white box arrived at my door there was only one thing printed on the side.
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Under your bar code is your Markers Valve number. This means I own the 8201th Tac One.
This number is also printed directly on your X-valve. Twice, once on the regulator and once on the Valve itself.
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Upon Opening the Box you will find a few things:
1. The AGD Tac One.
2. The J&J ceramic Two peice barrel (12'' long - 0.690 bore)
3. The Basic manuel
4. Imput Pressure Graphs
5. Your Official forum membership card to Automags Online forums
6. AGD Autolube
7. AGD stickers and an iron on patch.
8. Spare Parts for the Xvalve (shim's and Three Carriers plus O-rings
9. A DVD of how to set-up your Level Ten system and the X-valve. (already factory done, but watch it and learn)
10. If you spend the money, you will also recieve Extra parts for your X-valve. (O-rings and spare shims) ( I suggest you spend the extra money.)

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First im going over the marker itself.
The Tac - One comes with the intelliframe. Which is out-dated, but still works wondefull. You can electronically wire it to your hopper, so everytime you pull the trigger, the hopper feeds automatically. This ensures that you Always have a paintball in your breach at all times. Unfortunatly due to the new hoppers this feature is not a *must have* you can run it without fancy wires and what-not to your hopper.
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Next is the Feedneck.
The feedneck is angle threaded, and lock-tighted in. so your going to need some force to uncrew it out.
This feedneck is one of the few items on this marker you may want to replace early.
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The Detent is also Angle threaded. there is only one detent, although I still have not needed to replace it. And I have never had a problem double feeding so im quite happy with the detent. As you can see on the second picture the detent (white ball) is still round.
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The marker is held together by Two screws. One is the big silver "field Strip Screw" this screw secures your X-valve to the markers Frame, this way you only need to remove one screw to remove your valve for cleaning. This design on the automag is 20 years old, but it still works just as fast as the new 2010 markers.
The second screw is right beside the trigger, once you losen it you can use your fingers to get it out. Then you can remove the Mainbody, the rail will come right off. Then you have your three peices to your marker.
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When you recieve your marker, it will not have a ASA. This means you need to get one. and screw it into the grip-frame.
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you have two choices.
1. Run the line from the ASA directly into your valve.
2. Make a square pattern. then run it into your valve.

As you can see I have made the "backward's C" shape. Although by using the gas through grip you can make a Box shaped pattern.

Once you have the marker itself in your hands your almost instictivly going to reach for the barrel.
The J&J ceramic barrel is Autococker threaded, definatly one of the best stock barrels to come with a marker. I have used to time and time again without problems. its really light and has a great option to go with the 6 inch front peice for a more louder approch to your opponents.
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The next part is more of a warning if you plan on buying aftermarket Barrels. Here I have wrapped a small peice of tape around the visible part of the barrel when it is fully screwed into the marker.
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The next picture shows the barrel taken out and aligned with the body, To show you how deep the threads are inside the body. This means that barrels with small control bores such as the Hammer Head "fins" can get stuck inside the marker. So if you plan on buying a barrel kit with control backs, that are relevitly small. Make sure they are reverse threaded. This means that you turn "Righty tighty" to tighten the back to the marker, and Righty Loosy remove only the barrel. So the back never gets stuck inside the shroud.
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The manuel has the AGD contact information should you need it for any questions, it also has the proper way to chonograph your marker. which is very important when you own a X-valved Automag. The proper way to chrono an automag with the X-valve is:
1. Fire your first shot and hold down your trigger, Your first shot should not be counted.
2. While holding down the tigger, Release and shoot the marker as fast as you can.
3. Hold the trigger, record your velocity and repeat untill the desired velocity is reached.
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The reason you hold down the tigger is becuase you want to fill the air chamber and cycle that same air as fast as possible,
When air rushes into the chamber it is hot, so your velocity is increased. which is why you want to shoot it when the velocity will peak. So, when you increase your rate of fire it wont exceed the Fields Limit. If you fail to do this then when you start shooting at high rates of fire, you may be shooting 10FPS OVER the fields limit. A good gaurentee to give you a one way ticket back home.


The most Usefull peice of information to you will come in the form of Three graphs.
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These graphs are detailed explination's about how to set-up your marker's imput pressure to what you playstyle is. Becuase the X-valve has very awesome qualities to it. It also has very different effects when you change from 850PSI to 1000PSI of imput pressure.
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Colour key: Red is when you wait for a few seconds in between shots.
Blue is when you are increasing your rate of fire.
Black is a constant rate of fire.

For high imput pressure: When fireing at a rate of 2 shots per second or slower the X-valve will maintain constant velocities. When shooting at rates of 3 shots per second or more, the X-valve will record velocities closer to your maximum fire rate.
This means that when you take your time, each shot will be consistant, But when you increase your rate of fire the velocity increases also.
Example of FPS: target velocity 280
265......265...268,273,278,282,281,279,278,280,279

For Medium pressure imput: when you shoot and then wait 10 seconds the velocites will be the same as your maximum rate of fire. Although when increasing your rate of fire the velocity will drop, and then raise untill you reach you maximum rate of fire velocity. This is great for rapid fireing, becuase your first shot will land at your maximum rate of fire.
Example of FPS: Target velocity 280.
278......279..276,267,269,273,275,279,281,278,280

Low imput pressure: your first shot will be the highest velocity, any proceeding shots without waiting will be lower. This works well for players who want to pick their shots. this reacts more like a regular paintball marker, the faster you shoot the lower your velocity. although the Drop is not much, it is still somewhat significant on the chronograph.
Example of FPS; Target velocity 280
279....278..277,276,2,75,273,271,269,270,271,269

Should you have any questions that you are really stumped about, and you are to scared to talk to the REALLY nice people on the phone,
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Remember that you are a official member of Automags Online. a forum just like this, with thousands of pages of information about your automag.

You will also recieve a small box with two springs and Spare parts for your Level Ten system. (Anti-chop system)
Here is a picture of the smallest spring, the gold spring. Which is recomended for indoor play. (Velocities of 250 and under.)
It is shown where the spring is located in regards to the inside of your marker.
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You have three springs.
Gold - 250 and under.
Red - 260 to 280.
Silver - 280 and upwards.

You should switch to the spring that is closest to your fields velocity limit. Becuase if you use the gold spring at 280 FPS sometimes the spring will not fully return the bolt to the marker, This means a bad case of the bolt stick. which means you cannot fire anymore. likewise, if you use the spring that is to stiff, you may not have enough force to shoot it. So if I need to shoot at 250FPS and I put the silver spring in, when I lower the Velocity to shoot at 250FPS the marker wont fire, Becuase you need to be shooting at least 270 for the marker to operate with the silver spring.

The box also contians Autolube. This is a automags best friend. The only problem is that you may want to have a Spare Friend becuase Automags LOVE oil. Simple bolt stick issues or velocity jumps can be explained by the absence of oil. There is no such thing as flooding an Automag. (Of course dont actually flood your valve system with oil!)
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And as for velocities and accuracy:
The velocities depend on your imput pressure and your experiance with the marker.
At the field yesterday (Sunday july 26th) With my imput pressure just right I Achieved these numbers.

265, 269, 273, 279, 276, 281, 279, 278, 279, 277, 280, 281, 279,

The blue is my first shots at lower speeds ( say 2 or 3 seconds apart.)
The red is when I started in increase my Cycling Rate,
The black represents a continueous cycling perdiod.
(I had two guys yell out numbers to make sure they were right, just for you guys :))

With the X-valve (once again depending on imput pressure) when you increase your CPS (Cycles per second) you heat up the chamber on the inside. This in turn increases your velocity,

So when I space my shots out. I can look at velocities around 265. for one shot at a time.
But when I increase my Rate of fire the velocity increased to around 280 (fields limit and it was quite consistant the faster I cycled the marker.)
at the lowest of 278 and highest of 281, that means im lloking at a Plus minus of 2. which is awesome! and if I increased the rate futher it would become even more consistant. (but I wouldn't be able to read it lol.)

The efficiancy of this marker is not setting any new milestones.
The marker itself is quite efficiant, Although becuase they run off such high pressure imputs rather then most markers, when your tank hits 1000PSI, Your done. So on a 68/4500 Fill I can reach roughly 1100 shots with my barrel. on a 68/3000 fill I'm running around 800 shots. Should someone concieve a automag with the ability to dip into that 1000PSI range, for a spool valve operation it wouldnt be to bad.

So, grab your gear and become A Monster on the field.
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speaking of Monster
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This post has been edited by Eskimo: 27 July 2009 - 08:20 PM

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#9 User is offline   StealingYerMail 

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 03:24 PM

Pretty thorough, I may re-read it later, but props on the chrono and explaining how the X-Valve works. +/-2 looks like the best thing ever, but I bet a lot of people don't understand what makes the marker so consistent, and why it is important to chrono it right.

At any rate... how much is a used black X-Valve worth? I think I want to get rid of mine and get a Classic Valve -- there's a Mag project.
Maggot #53
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#10 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 05:16 PM

well if its in good condition you could argue a good 250$ for it. (that would be Brand New In Box.)
But I figure 225$ or somewhere around there. NOTHING less then 200$
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#11 User is offline   StealingYerMail 

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 05:29 PM

And how much is a Classic Valve worth? Say I wanted to trade a guy my X-Valve for his Classic, how much should I expect him to add? And can I use my Level 10 on a Classic Valve or no? I want my Mag to be a sick co2 set up, I think.
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#12 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 05:37 PM

I have no idea how much a classic is worth.
But I am 85% sure you can put a Level ten system on a Classic mag, But you will lose some efficiancy also.
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#13 User is offline   StealingYerMail 

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 05:45 PM

So maybe I should stick with a Level 7 then?

If I put a Level 7 on my X-Valve'd Mag, would that improve my efficiency? Granted it's still a Mag, but mine whores air.
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#14 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 05:54 PM

you would gain some efficiancy, But it would the negatives are for more then the positives.

Level 7= more efficiant bolt, but still possible to shop. especially at high rates of fire.
level 10= Skipped level 8 and 9 because it was so cool. Plus its almost impossible to shop a ball.
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#15 User is offline   StealingYerMail 

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Posted 27 July 2009 - 06:31 PM

Well, I've never chopped with my Level 10, but I'd probably be running a Halo or something with a Classic Valve and Level 7 if I went that route. And I can deal with the occasional chop.

Regardless, I'll have to look into it a bit more.

I was also wondering about Palmer's Stabilizers. If I had a Classic Valve, running off co2, could I also use a Stabilizer on the Mag?
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