Special Ops Paintball: Installing and tuning a Level 10 - Special Ops Paintball

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Installing and tuning a Level 10 The easy way Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   WardenWolf 

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 12:48 PM

Airgun Designs gives you very basic instructions for installing and tuning the Level 10. By all accounts, this can be a very time-consuming procedure that requires multiple disassemblies. However, there is an easier way that requires a minimum of effort.

1. Following AGD instructions, remove the old bolt assembly from the marker and place the white plastic spacer in the valve.

2. Choose a carrier O-Ring from the kit, and place it in the bottom of one of the larger carriers.

3. Slide the carrier and O-Ring over the shaft tip of the Level 10 bolt. Keep going down in size (remembering to move the O-Ring to the new carrier) until you find a carrier that offers a tiny bit of resistance when moving on the shaft, then select that carrier and the next two smaller sizes from the bag.

4. Install the first carrier you selected in the last step in the valve, place the bolt in the valve, install the short gold spring on the bolt, and insert the valve assembly into the gun and gas it up. Crank the velocity up a couple turns to ensure you have enough pressure.

5. If you hear a leak, listen closely. If it's barely audible when you place your ear to the feed neck, pull the trigger and dry fire it. If the leak goes away, add a shim or two on top of the carrier and you're done. The shims place additional pressure on the carrier, thus effectively decreasing its size by squeezing the O-Ring.* Until the O-Ring breaks in, you may hear a slight leak until the first dry fire. If, however, the leak is quite noticeable, remove the valve and switch to the next smaller carrier and repeat this step.

6. Once you have eliminated the leak, pull the valve out one final time. Install the red spring on the Level 10 bolt, reinstall it, gas the gun up again, and crank the velocity screw down until it will fire. Now stick your finger in the feed neck and pull the trigger. Surprise, surprise! The bolt will stop on your finger and reverse. That's it! You're done!


* Airgun Designs claims the shims actually increase the size of the carrier. However, if you actually understand how the Level 10 works, this is impossible. The pressure from above helps to flatten the O-Ring. When you flatten an O-Ring it expands horizontally to compensate, and the hole on the inside gets smaller, thereby making it fit tighter. It therefore reduces the size of the carrier when you add extra spacers on top of it.

Note: The Level 10 is sensitive to changes in velocity. The red spring is used for most play, and works fine in the 270-300 FPS range. However, if you are playing a night or indoor game, and must turn your velocity down to 260 FPS or below, you will need to use the shorter gold spring. If you are running a basic Automag or with the T2W stock, you can perform this change in about 2 minutes at the chronograph. I have personally performed the changeover while wearing a mask and pod pack, so I know it is simple. Just carry the Level 10 box in your pocket. If you are using the Longbow shroud, you must perform the disassembly in the staging area. There are 4 tiny screws to remove, and you do not want to risk losing them.

This post has been edited by WardenWolf: 02 December 2007 - 12:28 AM


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#2 User is offline   Pneumaniac227 

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Posted 02 September 2006 - 02:34 PM

Knowing my luck, when I get my mag, hopefully soon, the bolt won't bounce on my finger...ow...

Very helpful though, and this clarifies a few of the things I was wondering about mags, so thanks.
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#3 User is offline   NinjaoftheNight79 

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Posted 21 October 2006 - 11:15 PM

Good post, but I would like to inform you that the shims really don't do much to the size of the o-ring (for if it does it wont effect it at all). The point of the shim isn't to adjust the o-ring size, that is what the carriers are for. The point of the shim is to adjust where the O-ring sits inside the power piston. There is a spring inside behind all of the stuff (that you won't take out). By adding shims and then screwing the top on, you force the O-ring to be farther back. This must be adjusted so air can vent out of the hole in the side of the piston of the LVL 10 bolt if there is any jamming. If the O-ring isn't back far enough, the hole will not pass the O-ring in time to vent properly.

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#4 User is offline   WardenWolf 

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Posted 22 October 2006 - 11:31 AM

Well, the shims do a bit of both, to be honest. Because the O-Ring sits on the plastic washer, the screw-on endcap normally places pressure on the carrier and pushes it back. This compresses the O-Ring against the washer in addition to moving it back. Basically, it creates a tighter fit and reduces leakage while at the same time slightly adjusting the timing. It really just depends on how you see the shims being used as to how you employ them. Both viewpoints are equally valid.

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#5 User is offline   SpudCrushr 

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Posted 04 March 2008 - 10:13 AM

Pictures would be great. I'm new to these markers and the last thing I want to do is break my 550 dollar tac one..
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#6 User is offline   mapexgurl 

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Posted 06 March 2008 - 01:29 PM

View PostSpudCrushr, on Mar 4 2008, 12:13 PM, said:

Pictures would be great. I'm new to these markers and the last thing I want to do is break my 550 dollar tac one..



I doubt you'll break it... lol!

Watch this video. It helped me a lot.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=V0mvr30jKhw
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#7 User is offline   Texas Trigger 

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Posted 05 June 2008 - 11:05 AM

What should I do if I want my bolt to be a bit more sensitive? Smaller carrier?
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#8 User is offline   questionful 

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Posted 05 June 2008 - 11:07 AM

View PostTexas Trigger, on Jun 5 2008, 09:05 AM, said:

What should I do if I want my bolt to be a bit more sensitive? Smaller carrier?


No, go up a spring size. And add as many shims as possible without it leaking.
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#9 User is offline   Texas Trigger 

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Posted 05 June 2008 - 05:06 PM

Cool, thanks.
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#10 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 06 July 2008 - 06:59 PM

View PostWardenWolf, on Sep 2 2006, 12:48 PM, said:

5. If you hear a leak, listen closely. If it's barely audible when you place your ear to the feed neck, pull the trigger and dry fire it. If the leak goes away, add a shim or two on top of the carrier and you're done. The shims place additional pressure on the carrier, thus effectively decreasing its size by squeezing the O-Ring.* Until the O-Ring breaks in, you may hear a slight leak until the first dry fire. If, however, the leak is quite noticeable, remove the valve and switch to the next smaller carrier and repeat this step.


what happens when your at the smallest carrier??
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#11 User is offline   questionful 

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Posted 06 July 2008 - 07:02 PM

http://www.automags....l10/index.shtml

You probably have a shim leak. Remove all the shims. If it still leaks, try dumping some oil on the powertube O-ring.
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#12 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 07 December 2008 - 09:04 AM

Words from personaly experiance with turning the level 10.

When you place your ear near the marker. DO NOT place your ear facing the entrence to the feedneck or the end of the breach, you will get the sea-shell effect.
You will start hearing the blood flow inside your head, guess what it sounds like.

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

guess what a leak in the level 10 sounds like.

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.


Dont make that mistake, instead place your ear to the side of the marker, so your ear is perpendicular or facing the other way, from the feed neck,
( feed neck is pointed up, ear is pointed to the right side.. therefore sounds from your head do not go into the feedneck and bounce back into your ear, thus creating the sea shell effect.)

This post has been edited by Eskimo: 17 July 2010 - 08:05 AM

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#13 User is offline   Eagle Eye 

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Posted 30 April 2011 - 04:12 AM

uhm, can i recommend NOT putting your finger in the breech and pulling the trigger? Maybe using a pen or stick or something? Putting your finger in front of an advancing bolt is never a good idea. Yeah, i get the Anti-chop system, but if something goes wrong for whatever reason....ouch
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#14 User is offline   Eskimo 

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Posted 01 May 2011 - 07:37 PM

I do it all the time to figure out how i'm sitting with my O-ring. from the velocity which i normally play at (250) if the O-ring starts to change i'll have a much harder hit on my finger, this is my personal indication on the wear and tear..

But do yourself a favor and put a barrel swab in there first to make sure it does work
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