Tippmann E-Grip

One of the most killer mods you can put on you're A-5 is the Tippmann E-Grip, but it doesn't come without its drawbacks. The E-Grip gives you full auto, three-shot burst, reactive trigger and single-shot (and that's truly bad-ass.) If your field allows full-auto, then this advantage makes it completely worth the investment.

The E-Grip pops onto the A-5 body in seconds and runs off a 9-volt battery stored in the grip. You select your mode of fire and your rate of
fire by rotating tiny radial switches with a jeweler's screwdriver on the outside of the grip-front. It would be super-cool if the E-Grip came with an external selector switch (so you could toggle between full-auto, three-shot burst and semi-auto on the fly,) but most commercial fields would outlaw them if you could switch modes without tools.

Unfortunately, the E-Grip doesn't come close to giving the A-5 the performance of an electro-pneumatic tourney marker. On semi-auto mode, the E-Grip doesn't shoot noticeably faster than the stock trigger. So, on your local field, if full-auto isn't allowed, the E-Grip is probably not your best bet. However, if you're playing scenarios or outlaw fields where full-auto is allowed, the
E-Grip can shoot very, very fast. In fact, it's best not to turn the rate of fire radial switch up all the way. We usually shoot around 7 shots per second, which is significantly slower than most tourney markers. Shooting at a slower rate of fire makes it easier to correct your aim without burning too much paint. Plus, we're not into lighting the newbies up with ten welts per elimination.

The E-Grip doesn't speed up your semi-auto rate because nothing fundamental changes with the trigger mechanism by adding the E-Grip. The A-5 still must cycle completely before each trigger pull and the solenoid trigger doesn't speed that up at all. In essence, all the E-Grip does is replace the mechanical trigger with a solenoid. So, instead of your finger supplying the slight pressure that it takes to trip the sear, a solenoid does it for you.

Another drawback of the E-Grip is its voracious appetite for 9-volt batteries. We usually replace our 9-volts every other day of play. It really, really sucks when your 9-volt goes out on the field because it's a bitch to change out.

Actually, the 9-volt just slides out as soon as the E-Grip is popped off the gun, but if you're set to full-auto, that's when the trouble begins. On full-auto mode, when you detach the E-Grip from the A-5, the trigger starts going off and keeps firing until you get the battery out. Then, as soon as a new battery is put in, it starts going like crazy again. You can burn up a good portion of your battery's juice just trying to put the E-Grip back on your gun. The best work-around for this problem is to use a jeweler's screwdriver to set the radial switch to "off" before you remove the E-Grip. Then, it's a fairly simple matter to replace the battery. After you're done, don't forget to set it back to full-auto.

Ultimately, the E-Grip is a great mod if you can use full-auto mode. No matter what you hear, full-auto is a killer advantage. It allows you to go head-to-head with jitter-triggered tourney-heads and wipe the field with them. Since the Cyclone kicks butt on all other hoppers, you're A-5 will perform right on par with tourney markers that cost two or three times as much as your trusty A-5.